Showing posts with label breeding stock. Show all posts
Showing posts with label breeding stock. Show all posts

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Part 3: Getting Started in Rabbits - Choosing your Rabbit(s)




Congratulations!  You have made it this far and are ready to embark on one of the most satisfying parts of all!  Remember those questions you had to consider before getting this far?  What are your plans for your rabbit(s)?  

If you are looking to add one or two rabbits to the family, it is important to look at your options.  There are so many breeds and crossbreeds out there.  If you want a small breed that only weighs a few pounds, there are many to choose from.  If you love the humongous breeds, there are a few varieties you can explore.  If you have a soft spot for fluffy rabbits, there are many breeds in a variety of shapes and sizes to look into. 

After picking out your breed, search for breeders who have what you are looking for.  Although there are many beautiful bunnies sold in pet stores, I always recommend new owners to try to find rabbits through rabbit breeders, even if it is only for a pet.  Rabbits available from breeders are generally in better health, are handled more often, and breeders will generally know more about rabbits’ needs than an employee at a pet store.  Once you locate someone, look at what they have available.  You want a rabbit that handles well, is laid back in personality but lively (which generally indicates a healthy bunny), and is not sick.  Check underneath the nostrils and inside the front feet.  If it is wet, the rabbit may be sick.  Sometimes when rabbits stress they get a little wet underneath the nose and wipe their faces, so it may be fine, but if you see any white discharge, stay clear.  Color should be one of the last priorities you consider.  Usually if you love the rabbit you will learn to love its color regardless.  

If you want to breed for show, meat, or fiber, start out with brood or show stock.  Brood quality stock are rabbits that have some fault that makes it impossible for them to be shown.  This may be a torn ear, too much coloring on their body (as in the case of broken patterning), or perhaps a proven doe who has had quite a few litters and can’t be competitive enough in shows.  I would recommend staying away from rabbits with miscolored toenails if possible, as it may take a while to breed out.  Show rabbits should meet the breed’s standard per the standard of perfection.  When you breed, one of your goals should be to work on making kits that excel in body and fur quality, and are nicer than their parents.  Meat rabbits should make fast gains and dress out well.  Fiber rabbits should have excellent density, color, and texture to their coats.  Even if you were not planning on becoming a member of the American Rabbit Breeders Association ARBA, research the breed you will be investing your time in.  Read and memorize the breed’s standard so that you do not have to second guess yourself when you are getting your stock.  

Stay in touch with the breeders you purchase from.  Anybody who sells a rabbit should have the rabbits and your best interest in mind and should be more than happy to help you out on your new adventures.  If the customer is only concerned about making the sale, you may want to look elsewhere, as this often reflects the quality of their rabbits.  A breeder who truly loves working with their breeds will have superior rabbits to those who use it as a money making opportunity.  

Once you have gotten your breeding stock and they have settled down and adapted to their new environment, you can begin breeding plans.  When you breed will have to do with the age of your stock and environmental factors, which I will cover in more depth in the next post. 

Monday, October 27, 2014

Mouse's Litter One Month Old!

It is amazing how fast rabbits grow!  It has been a while since I posted some updated picture of Mouse's first litter, born September 25th.  They are now one month old!  It is looking like there are mostly bucks in the litter.  I am really happy with the way this litter has turned out, so it is going to make retaining for my program ever more difficult.  The kits are growing very nicely.  

Here are some pictures of individual shots of the French Angora babies.  They were very timid with the camera and are one of the few litters I have ever had that held relatively still for photography!   


The chestnut boys...

A blue baby...

The opal and black kit...

The opal...
Group shot!

I am taking in names for my waiting list for this litter, so if interested please email me and ask to be placed on the waiting list. 

Hope everyone in the mid-Michigan area is enjoying this warmer weather swing!  I know I am!

Friday, September 26, 2014

Baby French Angoras Again

It has certainly been a while since I last posted on this blog.  Summer was very busy for us and autumn has begun.  I am back in school and have been very busy with my studies. 

Last month I was privileged to obtain some beautiful French Angora rabbits from a friend.  She was a past customer of mine and asked me if I would be interested in the remaining of her small herd.  I happily acquired 2 bucks and 2 French Angora does from her.  One of the bucks is one I had bred and one of the does is a daughter of another buck I had sold her. 

I was able to breed Blossom Acres' Forget-Me-Not to Mouse, as well as Forget-Me-Not to a broken chestnut doe.  Mouse has in the past given me an extremely hard time and has never taken when I bred her.  I guess Forget-Me-Not did the trick because 31 days later she gave me this beautiful litter:



It looks like I have 1 black, 2 chestnut, and 3 blues.  I was very surprised as I did not know she carried the dilution gene!  This is her very first litter and so far she has been a good mom.  I can't wait to watch these kits mature as I think they will be competitive on the show table. 

I have another doe bred to Forget-Me-Not and she is due in a few days, so please check the website for updates!

While I went north to pick these guys up, I also acquired a few purebred Narragansett turkey poults.  If all goes as planned, I will be offering some purebred poults and breeding stock in the near future! 

Thank you all for your patience in my blog absence.  I will try to continue posting more frequently so please visiting our blog for updates! 

Have a great weekend!

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Breeding Blue Eyed White Lionheads – The Vienna Gene


This article was published in the Oct/Nov/Dec 2013 newsletter of the North American Lionhead Rabbit Club, The Mane Musings and updated 4 years late for publishing in the NARLC Guidebook.  Although I wrote it about BEW Lionheads, the genetics of the Vienna gene are the same for any breed of rabbit and so are the breeding principles.  I hope that you enjoy the article and ask that you do not copy any of its content without permission.  Thank you

 

Introduction

Breeding blue-eyed white Lionheads has proven to be quite the journey for me since I started my project with this variety four years ago.  Challenging, but also very rewarding, the BEW variety requires ample patience in addition to a solid understanding of genetics, because of the intricacies of the Vienna gene.  This is an updated version of my article that was published in the Mane Musings in 2013. 


Establishing a Breeding Program and Vienna Genetics

A blue-eyed white breeding program should be treated like a completely different breed from your other Lionhead colors in a sense, because you cannot use animals from your BEW program with other color lines.  Additionally, you do not necessarily want to cross any color into your BEW program either, without careful consideration.  Breeding your BEWs to a colored rabbit should only be done to improve the type/mane/etc. in your BEWs and then all resulting offspring are Viennas and should be treated as such.  Having a Vienna color breeding program will mean that you have many non-showable bunnies popping up, so make sure you have a plan to move them on when needed.  Breeding BEWs is a one-way street.  Other colors can go in, but you cannot take rabbits from your Vienna line and put them in a non-Vienna breeding program.

It is important to understand the terminology used by BEW breeders.

BEW – stands for blue-eyed white.  It is a pure white rabbit with bright blue eyes.

Vienna Gene – Expressed as “V” (regular) or “v” (Vienna).

VM – Stands for Vienna Marked or “Mismark Sport”.  It is when a rabbit carries the Vienna gene and shows it in spots of foreign color in the coat.  This is never showable. 

VC – Stands for Vienna Carrier.  A rabbit that carries the Vienna gene but does not show it.    These are the most important to clearly identify as Viennas to your customers and in pedigrees.  You do not want someone thinking that their Lionhead is just a regular solid colored rabbit and then get the Vienna gene spoiling their color down the road.

The genetics of a BEW are as follows:

----------VV – “regular”, non-Vienna rabbit.  Most Lionheads are VV and do not have the Vienna gene. 

----------vv – blue-eyed white.  It takes two copies of this gene to be a BEW.

----------Vv – Vienna Mismark or Vienna Carrier.  One copy of this gene may or may not show up in the rabbit’s phenotype. 

The Vienna gene is a masking gene like REW.  All the dashes in the genotype are unknown genes that vary by the rabbit.  Like REWs, you can have BEWs that are genetically torts, chestnuts, otters, harlequins, or any variety of colors hiding behind the white.  Many BEWs do hide some of these more unusual colors. 


Gene Expression


How are BEWs the color that they are?  A BEW is white because the Vienna gene wipes out the cells that produce pigment in the fur (melanocytes).  A VM’s spots of white are literally spots that do not have any melanocytes.  The eyes are blue for the same reason; the pigment in the iris of the eye is normal, but the pigment in the stroma has a slightly different type of cell and is missing melanocytes.  The combination of normal and missing pigmentation produces the effect of a blue eye.  The blue is an optical effect – the eye is not actually blue but appears that color much the same way that the sky appears blue, but is not.  Therefore, the blue eyes can seem different shades in different lighting.  True eye color is best evaluated in natural sunlight. 

BEW eye color also changes from kits to mature animals.  When the eyes first open, they look very dark - almost black.  As they mature, the color slowly brightens.  At what age the eye color stops changing varies somewhat by the line, but many do by around 4 months of age. 

 

Working with VMs and VCs

When you breed BEWs, unless you are only crossing BEW to BEW, you will likely be working with VMs and VCs.  The Vienna gene has incomplete dominance, so if a rabbit carries one copy of the gene, the color expression can “turn off” or “turn on” by mere chance.  A VM can be very subtle like a colored rabbit with a speck of blue color in the eye and a white toenail, or it can be more dramatic with a blaze, color on the neck and shoulder, and white feet, for example.  Although the markings are somewhat random, they still tend to follow a pattern of typical depigmentation.  Blazes and nose spots of many different shapes, blue or partially blue eyes, neck and shoulder markings, and white feet tend to be the most commonly seen markings.  Eye color on VMs varies just as the spotting does.  It is often regular colored (brown or blue-gray), but can also be pure blue, or very often partially blue or odd eyed.    

VMs or VCs can be very valuable in a herd.  Many BEW breeders will occasionally bring in a non-Vienna rabbit of compatible color genetics to improve quality and bring in new blood.  It takes at least two generations working this way as the first generation of kits will all be VMs and VCs. Vienna-marked and carriers can be bred to a BEW for BEW offspring or with each other to achieve the same goal.  I do not recommend breeding a VM or a VC to a non-Vienna rabbit because you will not get any BEWs and the number of VMs will be too small to make the cross worth it.  Some of the kits produced will not carry the Vienna gene at all and these cannot be told apart from VCs without test breeding first. 

 

Purple Eye Effect

There are several causes of a purple eye effect in BEWs.  This happens when additional factors contribute red to the eye color and, in combination with the existing blue, can look purple overall. 

A ruby cast is a common cause of purple eyes.  Shaded varieties that have a ruby cast to their eyes like siamese sables, sable points, and smoke pearls will cause this in addition to chocolate varieties such as chocolates, lilacs, and chocolate torts.  Homozygous Vienna genes mask everything, but for some reason do not mask this ruby cast and it will show right through the blue eyes.  The eyes resemble a red eye in a photograph from camera flash - but in real life.  The ruby cast can be described like a translucent red film in the pupil of the eye and it is somewhat reflective.  This effect is sometimes described as purple eyes and it spoils the look of a blue eye considerably.  The recessive nature of these genes make it important to not only stay away from breeding in these animals with ruby cast, but also ones that carry for it.  A black that carries chocolate, for example, can still introduce these genes in your BEW herd. 

BEWs can also have a different purple effect in the eye, not to be confused with the ruby cast effect from chocolate or shaded.  These eyes are blue with visible red/purple veins in them, and are believed to be caused by lack of pigmentation in the iris.  If you look at the brown eyes in some rabbits, you will see that some are very dark and uniform and others are lighter or possibly have somewhat uneven coloration.  This is the same lack of pigmentation being expressed in a more subtle manner in other colors than BEWs.  By selecting away from the latter coloration, the purple veining will disappear and the eyes will be a uniform, brilliant blue.  

 

Other Genes Avoided

There are also several colors that many BEW breeders will avoid, not because they damage BEW color, but because they make color identification much more difficult. 

The first of these colors is REW which is another masking gene.  You can have a rabbit that is genetically blue-eyed white and ruby-eyed white at the same time, but they have ruby eyes because REW will cover patterns in all other loci.  Because of this masking, you do not know if the rabbit genetically is a BEW, a VM, VC, or even non-Vienna depending on the breeding they are out of.  It also makes your chances of getting actual BEWs in a litter slimmer when some of them are double masked with REW. 

The next color that many BEW breeders avoid is broken.  In some crosses, many breeders will depend on retaining VMs rather than non-marked babies so that they know they carry the Vienna gene and broken can mask this very well as it is white on white. 

 

Buyer Education

If you breed BEWs, it is very important to inform all buyers of any BEW, VC, or VM rabbits.  This should be clearly marked in the pedigrees and I tattoo a “V” in the ear of any rabbit from my Vienna line whether it is a BEW or not.  There are terrible stories of entire breeding programs being destroyed because the Vienna gene was lurking behind colors and the breeder was unaware of its presence.  Anyone who raises and breeds rabbits with the Vienna gene needs to understand how damaging it can be if not carefully controlled in its own program.  They also need to ensure that their buyers understand this as well.    

 

Misconceptions with the Vienna gene:

Possibly more so than with other colors, there are many misconceptions with the Vienna gene and BEWs in general. 

·       It is a myth that BEWs are blind, deaf, or have seizures.  This may have been the case early in the development in some breeds due to heavy in-breeding, but it is no longer a problem at all.  I have never heard of this being an issue in the Lionhead breed.

·       Dutch colored rabbits are not caused by the Vienna gene.  Although the blaze and other patterning in a VM may closely resemble Dutch patterning, they are completely unrelated genetically.  VMs are sometimes called “Dutch-Marked” which may lead to further confusion.

·       A white rabbit with blue gray eyes or brown eyes is an ermine or frosty with extremely light color.  Usually you can find these faintly colored hairs on the ears and a BEW would never have them.  A white rabbit with blue gray eyes can easily be mistaken for a BEW. 

·       VMs are not brokens and cannot be shown or bred as such.  Using a VM as a broken in your breeding program will be devastating.  If it is out of Vienna lines, do not cross it with your other colors.

·       Although REWs and BEWs are both white, they are not at all related.

·       REW does not cause a purple eye effect.  REWs that are hiding chocolate can pass chocolate which produces this ruby cast or ones that have the genetics for light eye pigmentation can produce the visible vein effect, but the REW gene itself does not damage color.

·       No other color genes appear to affect  BEW color including dilute and chinchilla.  BEWs with these genes behind them have blue eye color equal to ones that do not. 

 

Conclusion

With striking blue eyes and a pure white coat, BEWs are a stunning variety with increasing popularity and interest. This is not a variety project that should be undertaken without a solid understanding of the genetics behind it.  Careful and responsible breeding of the Vienna gene is essential to a successful and rewarding line of blue-eyed whites.